Audiophiles Unite

[Pai Mel]

Well I didn't say they shouldn't buy identical speakers. I did mention it would be an ideal setup if they were identical.

But rather I was encouraging they invest in an excellent center speaker first as this is where the dialogue comes from and it's important that it sounds clear and natural. Being able to understand the movie dialogue is more important than surround panning tonal equality.

I would persevere with an initial speaker mismatch if in the long run I would end up getting a better sounding system.

[Pai Mel]

Anyone know where to get compatible replacement ear pads cheap, for Sennheiser HD 565 headphones?

These are 10 years old but still the best sounding headphones I have. Mind you I won't spend over $50 on headphones these days.

Tell me exactly why two oval bits of plastic with foam cushioning, covered with velour material costs $90 + shipping?

I just can't bring myself to pay that much for official replacement ear pads. At the moment I just have layers of tissues taped to the ear cups, haha.

[fishfishmonkeyhat]

Tell me exactly why two oval bits of plastic with foam cushioning, covered with velour material costs $90 + shipping?

Just between me and you, these audiophiles types are mad crazy, and will pay whatever the asking price!

[Vicious]

Anyone know where to get compatible replacement ear pads cheap, for Sennheiser HD 565 headphones?

These are 10 years old but still the best sounding headphones I have. Mind you I won't spend over $50 on headphones these days.

Tell me exactly why two oval bits of plastic with foam cushioning, covered with velour material costs $90 + shipping?

I just can't bring myself to pay that much for official replacement ear pads. At the moment I just have layers of tissues taped to the ear cups, haha.

Unfortunately a lot of companies charge an arm and a leg for new pads since they really should last a long time (many are fairly easy to wash). This will definitely be true of the Senns because the same pads are used on almost all of their headphones (like the HD650). You could always try hiring someone to sew a pair of fake or genuine leather pads and figure out how to mount them - at least you get your money's worth then.

Just a question though: what's wrong with your current earpads?

[Pai Mel]

After years of use, and having gone through several wash cycles, they just deteriorated. In order to remove them from the cup, you had to pull on the velour or foam bit, so eventually tore.

At least with fixed leather ear pads, you could just wipe them with a damp sponge.

I think I'll just try and find a black cloth, roll it up, and tape it around the ear cup. Mainly I just need the extra tension to keep the 'phones from falling off my head. They are open type phones so earpads will have no effect on audio.

[Vicious]

They are open type phones so earpads will have no effect on audio.

That isn't true actually - pads can have effects on dispersion characteristics due to angle and distance, and it can impact FR due to sound deadening.

For example, the biggest difference in the Grado SR line is the pads - they have a measurable impact on sound. Same with using jmoney pads on Denon's. Tyll from Headroom (now running InnerFidelity) measured them with stock and jmoney pads and there was actually a hefty difference.

[Vicious]

Random update:

Got a new headphone amp, the Objective 2 (O2) amplifier:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XtD89Fqngq8/TnMI0vu2tQI/AAAAAAAAB-0/EKQIrdMGUJg/s912/P1030926.JPG

Generally it puts out around 4-6V depending on the gain setting I use. It's nice seeing an actually good performing amp for the price, considering the nightmare I had with the Schiit Asgard (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCZ-AJQOiDg).

Must say I'm impressed by the performance considering the price of the O2.

The next pick-up was this:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0rqnZU6xy2Q/Tnx8rpnZsnI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/gth8t-L_n7Y/s912/P1030949.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LY-HopZ-GyA/Tnx8tCRFjzI/AAAAAAAAB_k/DPacoTEaf0w/s912/P1030956.JPG

A vintage Luxman D-405 CDP that required some minimal maintenance for $10

The CD tray itself is a few pounds I imagine, with aluminum (or maybe steel) construction throughout. The laser assembly is actually part of the tray, with the spindle and laser on the same suspension to prevent skipping. The CD is held down to the spindle with a magnetic puck you take on and off yourself.

It was manufactured in June 1985 and still works a treat. For $10 no way in hell I was going to pass it up ^_^

[Pai Mel]

Omg, you still listen to CDs, you're such a dinosaur, saur, saur.

Is that a valve-driven headphone amp? [EDIT: Ok so Google tells me it's a DIY project (http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/07/o2-headphone-amp.html)]

[Vicious]

Omg, you still listen to CDs, you're such a dinosaur, saur, saur.

You're a bit late to the game, if you looked a page or so back you'd see a turntable I picked up too. :eek:

I still have . . . ~60GB in MP3s or so? And another folder for FLAC (that's a killer!).

Is that a valve-driven headphone amp? [EDIT: Ok so Google tells me it's a DIY project (http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/07/o2-headphone-amp.html)]

I tend to have a dislike for tubes unless they're either really cheap or done right (which is expensive, but some are expensive and still done "wrong" aka OTL).

If I was to buy a tube headphone amp it would be a bottlehead or a transformer coupled woo. If it's OTL I'd just piece something together myself for shits and giggles.

[Pai Mel]

There's a used, black Krix Epicentrix center speaker (http://www.krix.com.au/Product/Detail.aspx?p=44&id=20) on ebay for $1100 from mwaveonline. Pick-up in VIC only so I can't buy it.

I have been mildly lusting for one of those. Mildly because I know it's completely and utterly overkill for our setup.

You can put a TV directly on top of these things and it will support 200kg.

[Pai Mel]

Found this bargain on ozbargain. Have not heard of the brand till now but seems like a pretty good deal, considering it would cost me $99 just for replacement earpads alone for my Sennys.

http://www.jaben.com.au/goldring-dr150-bravo-ocean-tube-amp-bundle/

[Vicious]

Goldring is a lesser known but still considered established brand. They're a bit wonky in 4-5khz though as shown by Ryumatsuba:

http://www.geocities.jp/ryumatsuba/dr150_f.gif (http://www.geocities.jp/ryumatsuba/dr150.html)

Everything else looks normal (to see review page click image, note impressions are in Japanese).

[tau]

So I got the Gears of War 3 simulated surround sound headphones... taking back tomorrow.

There's a massively loud hissing AND i'm picking up a fking radio station. Wtf?

edit: And they're pretty meh all-round. Do people reviewing headphones not know how bad they actually are or did I get a dud pair? :|

[Vicious]

So I got the Gears of War 3 simulated surround sound headphones... taking back tomorrow.

There's a massively loud hissing AND i'm picking up a fking radio station. Wtf?

edit: And they're pretty meh all-round. Do people reviewing headphones not know how bad they actually are or did I get a dud pair? :|

Can't say it's surprising in the least honestly, their headphone are garbage. The only good thing is Dolby Headphone.

If you really want simulated surround, either a pair of Audio-Technica AD700 or Sennheiser HD555 (or similar from the lines) and a Mixamp Pro. For a mic just a cheap clippy Zalman tends to work well.

Personally I use a SU-DH1 for DTS support, but it tends to needs a second amp to make it work at the needed levels.

EDIT:

The Earforce DSS also comes to mind, and may be easier to find than the Mixamp.

[Lazlow]

I've got this head unit (http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/22/121/61/DEH-8350SD/specs.html) and two of these in the rear (http://www.sony.com.au/product/xs-gtx1641), with possibly another two to go in the front (currently just stock).

Do I need an amp?

Currently the right rear is intermittently cutting out and throwing up static. Some days it works beautifully other days its a bitch.

My gut tells me its the wiring because we wired the existing harness to the speaker connections so I wouldn't have to rewire the whole car. But I just layed down in the boot for the last 30 minutes - as the right rear cut out on the drive home again - basically unplugging things and plugging them back in and pressing down on the solder points and I couldn't really get it to fire up properly.

Previous times I had it firing, but when I turn the volume up it cuts out and then kind of whimpers along with static pops and low volumes.

I have no such problems with the left rear.

[Lazlow]

Oh well problem solved. Was the wiring behind the head unit, solder for that particular speaker didn't take cleanly and it must have come loose with the heat.

[Italian Stallion]

Looking at putting together a dual zone (1 indoor, 1 outdoor) audio system, any suggestions on a cost effective way to go about it?

Original idea was to buy a micro hifi - there's a nice looking Sony with digital radio & wireless DLNA capabilities which sounded reasonably good for the price - then connecting a switch box, so we could swap between those speakers and some speakers we'd run outside.

I was told flatout by a salesman at JB HiFi that that wouldn't work, apparently due to odd impedance ratings micro hifis generally use - but the Sony seemed to be rated at 6ohms, which isn't all that uncommon? It seems like a bit of a dodgy solution though, and would probably cost more than the following option..

The next idea was just to buy an entry level stereo amp with A/B speaker switching. We've got a spare DVD player for the odd time it'd be used for music CDs. Seems like the easiest way to get it all working properly.

The last option, but the most expensive, was a Sonos setup. One of the models with an integrated amplifier. Problem here being these things seem to only accommodate for one set of speakers.. which brings me back to the idea of a speaker switch box? Are they any good? I noticed there's some for ~$30 on eBay.. will that do everything I need? Multi-zone Sonos setups seem great, but at $600-$800 each.. it's getting a bit expensive. Aside from these limitations, after seeing it in action I can saw it's certainly a sweet setup. :)

Also thinking about getting a Logitech Squeezebox if I went with option 1 & 2, so option 3 would obviously cut that cost out of it too.

Any help appreciated!

[Rambo]

Sonos speakers sound decent but they are really expensive.

I'm pretty sure you could get more for your money if you found a more 'home-made' solution.

[Lazlow]

Trying to get my head around impedance

As an example, if I have a source rated 16 Ω which is hooked up to a speaker rated 4 Ω, is something likely to fail and, if so, which is it?

[adam_91vn]

I have a sonos setup and it is worth it. Do you already have ceiling speakers?

The Connect Amps have a bridge in them so if you have the speakers then all you need to get is a couple of those. I know a place that gets them directly from Sonos, much cheaper than retail.

You could also import them

[Italian Stallion]

Sonos speakers sound decent but they are really expensive.

I'm pretty sure you could get more for your money if you found a more 'home-made' solution.
Not really planning on using Sonos speakers, just the media streamer/amplifier part. The speaker packages sounded good for an all-in-one solution, but yeah, would much rather use my own speakers.

Rough calculations based on the prices I was given, I could get an amp/Logitech Squeezebox/speakers for less than half the price of a Sonos setup.. it would more or less do the same thing, just wouldn't be as simple & convenient. Plus I just realised that Sonos remotes are $350+ on their own, and since I'm the only one with a smartphone to use as a remote in the house, we'd have to get one.. getting way too expensive!

Trying to get my head around impedance

As an example, if I have a source rated 16 Ω which is hooked up to a speaker rated 4 Ω, is something likely to fail and, if so, which is it?
I've been trying to get my head around it too, but I think the answer is yes. Lower impedance = higher current, more heat, etc. I think amps automatically shut down if they get too hot, which prevents immediate damage to the amp.. but it causes gradual damage. I think whether speakers are damaged is based on how good the amp is at preventing it.

I have a sonos setup and it is worth it. Do you already have ceiling speakers?

The Connect Amps have a bridge in them so if you have the speakers then all you need to get is a couple of those. I know a place that gets them directly from Sonos, much cheaper than retail.

You could also import them
No ceiling speakers yet, but I'm pretty sure it was the Connect Amp we were looking at. The only real issue with them, was that since the two areas we want to send music to are adjoining, and the outdoor area would have it's Sonos box in the other area, it seemed like a waste to buy 2 boxes if we could do it with one.. even buying one at the quoted price brought it up a bit higher than what we wanted to spend - 2 was certainly too much though.

How much cheaper are we talking though? :p

[adam_91vn]

I think it was at around $200 cheaper. The retail is $788.

You could get a connect amp for inside and a PLAY3 for outside.

With the controller issue you could use your phone or the a laptop or PC as another one. Once you que up a bunch of music you dont really need stuff around with the controls to much anyway if you know what I mean

[Vicious]

I've been trying to get my head around it too, but I think the answer is yes. Lower impedance = higher current, more heat, etc. I think amps automatically shut down if they get too hot, which prevents immediate damage to the amp.. but it causes gradual damage. I think whether speakers are damaged is based on how good the amp is at preventing it.

Very close. Yes, the amplifier will overheat and will usually have protection circuitry to shut it down. However, this does not protect the speaker itself.

What kills the speaker is clipping distortion. When the amp can't provide the necessary power for the gain increase needed so you get a hard clipped distortion (in a solid state amp, tubes are different). This is closer to a square wave. When this happens, drivers don't move properly which prevents their cooling mechanisms from working properly (such as vented pole pieces). As they get hot and overheat it can destroy their voice coils.

Damage is most likely to occur on a tweeter in such a case (infamous "blown tweeter" is usually from clipping distortion), but under proper circumstances can kill any driver.

Hope that helps!

PS: Sorry for belated reply, haven't been on in quite a while.


Oh, as for your multi-zone situation - are you planning on running wire in an in-wall type solution? There's a few ways to cheat. Do the zones need to be separate, or does one set of speakers just need to be disabled? What sound levels are you wanting to reach in both solutions? Do you already have some speakers in-mind? Are you keeping your current in-house speakers or expanding them? Same for the outdoors.

[Lazlow]

Is it normal to start hearing faint static in music?

Only recently picked up on it when I completed the car stereo upgrade. I thought something was wrong with the setup (wiring/unit/speakers), but now I'm sitting here listening to the same CDs through headphones and I'm hearing the same faint static/noise in them.

[Vicious]

Is it normal to start hearing faint static in music?

Only recently picked up on it when I completed the car stereo upgrade. I thought something was wrong with the setup (wiring/unit/speakers), but now I'm sitting here listening to the same CDs through headphones and I'm hearing the same faint static/noise in them.

Could be the music on the CDs. Is it doing it for all music or only those?

[Lazlow]

I'm only picking it up on certain CDs so far

[Vicious]

I'm only picking it up on certain CDs so far

Well if it's only certain CDs . . . that should pretty much answer the question. If you start noticing it on all CD's and sources then there might be a problem, but when it only happens with certain music sounds like it's from the source material.