Audiophiles Unite

[Lazlow]

of which I am not >_>

I'm kick starting this thread to see if there are any decent 2.1 home theatre setups worth looking into.

The way our lounge is 5.1 would be a bitch to set up, and I don't think its particularly necessary. However I've heard there's some 2.1 gear out there that simulates a surround sound environment pretty well.

Any takers? Vicious? >_>

[Fenrir]

NFI, but we seem to have some adept enthusiasts 'round these parts.

The reason I'm posting, though: I go through earphones more quickly than my budget allows, and thus need a durable and/or inexpensively replaceable solution. Audio quality would be a bonus. The problem is in the damned flimsy cords - the inner wire actually snaps, disconnecting the earphones and rendering them useless.

Someone here (possibly Vicious) pointed me in the direction of some high-quality earphones which actually had replaceable cords, which'd probably be the perfect solution (provided the cords are cheap), but I let that info slip away into some unfathomable abyss of forgetfulness.

[Silverwolf]

My friend is an enourmous Audiophile, he's spent over 2k in the last year on his amps and headphones.
The good thing about this is I got his old headphones he was upgrading from for cheap. They're made from wood!!`!1! They are worth about $500 new too, which is awesome.

http://www.aloaudio.com/store/images/ATH-ESW9.jpg
They are really nice, but they do get uncomfortable around my ears after 3+ hours of wearing, since they are so small.

If you mean canalphones/earbuds, Fenrir, only ones i've heard of are the Ultimate Ears UE10's. Quite expensive though.

[Fenrir]

**** me, I'm hearing $900+, and that's on US sites. You're not kidding, eh?

May be able to justify it as a(n aspiring) musician, or something. The big question is, those replaceable cords - are they cheap?

[Silverwolf]

I have no idea myself, my friend said they cost about $600, and I was assuming he meant AU dollars!
Proper headphones have much more options when it comes to replaceable cables.

[Fenrir]

Proper headphones have the disadvantages of being clunky and burdensome.

[Lex]

I go through earphones more quickly than my budget allows, and thus need a durable and/or inexpensively replaceable solution. Audio quality would be a bonus. The problem is in the damned flimsy cords - the inner wire actually snaps, disconnecting the earphones and rendering them useless.

stop buying cheap shit, really.

[Fenrir]

stop buying cheap shit, really.
Where do you set the lower bound on expenditure on earphones, then?

[Shorty]

I've had my Sennheiser HD497s literally for years thanks to the detachable headphone cable. If that goes, I order another one for a few dollars and it's good as new.

[incompatible with life]

The reason I'm posting, though: I go through earphones more quickly than my budget allows, and thus need a durable and/or inexpensively replaceable solution. Audio quality would be a bonus. The problem is in the damned flimsy cords - the inner wire actually snaps, disconnecting the earphones and rendering them useless.
Depending on what you're listening with, maybe try some bluetooth headphones?
I have seen a few bluetooth adapters for standard audio plugs.
Admittedly as long as I can hear the music I'm not too fussed about quality but I haven't had too many problems (aside from the occasional connection issue).

[Fenrir]

I'm no audiophile (and therefore probably have no place in this thread), so sound quality is almost a non-issue - but I really prefer earphones.

[incompatible with life]

Something like this? (http://www.catchoftheday.com.au/Philips_SwitchStream_BlueTooth_Headsets!-p-671.html)

Or this? (http://direct.motorola.com/hellomoto/s9/)

[Vicious]

of which I am not >_>

I'm kick starting this thread to see if there are any decent 2.1 home theatre setups worth looking into.

The way our lounge is 5.1 would be a bitch to set up, and I don't think its particularly necessary. However I've heard there's some 2.1 gear out there that simulates a surround sound environment pretty well.

Any takers? Vicious? >_>

The best bet if you're trying ti simulate would be a sound bar. The problem I have with those is they very much depend on the room and placement. Headphones can simulate 5.0 very well thanks to Dolby Headphone and the fact that there's no outside acoustics to compensate for.

There's tons of questions to ask though in regards to what you want:

1) Are you powering these with a HT receiver, stereo receiver, or a true amp, preamp, etc.?

2) Do you prefer bookshelves or floorstanding?

3) Can you take pics of the room, make a diagram, or describe the seating situation?

4) Are people spread all over the place when viewing movies, or generally centered (chair placed in random places vs. everyone sitting on a sofa)?

5) Budget ;)

I already have something in mind that is fairly reasonable . . . but I need to confirm your needs first.

Someone here (possibly Vicious) pointed me in the direction of some high-quality earphones which actually had replaceable cords, which'd probably be the perfect solution (provided the cords are cheap), but I let that info slip away into some unfathomable abyss of forgetfulness.

Those were Ultimate Ears Super.Fi 3, 5 Pro, or Triple.fi. They are no longer made, presumably due to the Logitech acquisition of UE. I'm personally not amused that they got rid of detachable cables :mad:

I know a guy on another forum that's also in Australia. I suggested Denon AH-C351K IEMs to him which he grabbed off ebay. He's been enjoying them quite a bit from what I understand.

He ended up grabbing them from here (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Denon-AH-C351-Black-In-Ear-Earphones-Headphones-AHC351K_W0QQitemZ370208393915QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOt her_MP3_Player_Accessories?hash=item563223cabb&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177&_trkparms=240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)

Should be a solid deal.

EDIT:

Did a bit of research, and it turns out the Altec Lansing UHP336 is a rebranded Super.Fi 3 that still has the detachable cable. ;)

I have no idea myself, my friend said they cost about $600, and I was assuming he meant AU dollars!
Proper headphones have much more options when it comes to replaceable cables.

Their MSRP is actually $280 (USD) in Japan. The real cost is importing and artificial inflation from temporary demand. Headroom used to charge $550 for them and is now trying to clear them out for $300 USD due to some dislike of the sound signature (too much bass). Hell, Amazon/Beach Camera (distro) dropped them to $230.

Personally I dislike wood in headphones . . . causes much more of a headache than it's ever worth, even if it does look sexy as all get out.

[Lazlow]

The best bet if you're trying ti simulate would be a sound bar. The problem I have with those is they very much depend on the room and placement. Headphones can simulate 5.0 very well thanks to Dolby Headphone and the fact that there's no outside acoustics to compensate for.

There's tons of questions to ask though in regards to what you want:

1) Are you powering these with a HT receiver, stereo receiver, or a true amp, preamp, etc.?

We've got nothing atm... hoping there's a All-in-1 solution.

2) Do you prefer bookshelves or floorstanding?

Got space for either/or so no real preference

3) Can you take pics of the room, make a diagram, or describe the seating situation?

Crude Paint pic ahoy

http://i29.tinypic.com/300tizb.jpg

About 5-6m square. Arrows indicate is an open walkway, south leads through an arch to the kitchen/dining area, north heads to front door/main bedroom area. black scribbled areas at the walls, blue is a window.

4) Are people spread all over the place when viewing movies, or generally centered (chair placed in random places vs. everyone sitting on a sofa)?

Usually on the couch

5) Budget

Haven't really set one as I have no idea what I'm looking at for what I'm after. That said, over $1000 would probably be pushing it.

[Vicious]

Lazlow,

This may be a bit tight, and you're going to want to call the online distro I mention to see what discounts you can get as they offer lower than RRP (the speakers I link are already on clearance it seems). The good news is they're located in Australia so no importing, etc.

Cambridge 340A Integrated (http://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34&products_id=498)

Wharfedale D9.1 (http://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_28&products_id=163)

You'll want to ask them about what sub you can match with these for $1000 or so (it may be a bit over, but the SQ will be solid on many levels). Otherwise

Brands they carry that I'd try to get with the setup include:

Jamo, B&W, Velodyne, Wharfedale, and Boston Acoustics. Anything else probably isn't worth it or more expensive than you can afford considering the squeeze already.

If you just can't pull off the sub then you may want to do a slight upgrade on the speakers till you can afford one or decide you need one. The D9.2 (http://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_28&products_id=164) are only $100 more and offer a bit more extension into the bass.


I was originally going to suggest importing a set of Mirage bookshelves and buying the amp and sub there, but on 1000 AUD importing is pretty much out of the question.

As for an all in one solution a soundbar would fail hopelessly in that scenario. You'd lose left surround simulation extremely fast.

[Fenrir]

Those were Ultimate Ears Super.Fi 3, 5 Pro, or Triple.fi. They are no longer made, presumably due to the Logitech acquisition of UE. I'm personally not amused that they got rid of detachable cables :mad:

I know a guy on another forum that's also in Australia. I suggested Denon AH-C351K IEMs to him which he grabbed off ebay. He's been enjoying them quite a bit from what I understand.

He ended up grabbing them from here (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Denon-AH-C351-Black-In-Ear-Earphones-Headphones-AHC351K_W0QQitemZ370208393915QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOt her_MP3_Player_Accessories?hash=item563223cabb&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177&_trkparms=240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)

Should be a solid deal.

EDIT:

Did a bit of research, and it turns out the Altec Lansing UHP336 is a rebranded Super.Fi 3 that still has the detachable cable. ;)
Bumping to remind myself to buy. :cool:

[Blue]

I need some headphones.

I want either supra-aural, or simply portable. My friend has a pair of supra-aural Sennheisers with cups (as opposed to the foam pads) that are very comfortable, and I think I prefer the feel and look of those rather than the foam pad idea. I haven't actually listened to them, though. They do have a detachable cable, which is nice.

So, I'm looking for something portable, preferably with a collapsible band like these things have. I'm not interested in noise reduction. Any recommendations?

[Fenrir]

Update, I'm horrified (http://www.headphones.com.au/pbrowse?search=ultimate+cable).

That's more than I pay for entire replacement earphones, just on replacement cables for the damn things (http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=248). Unless they're frickin' hyperdurable cables from the future, I need a new strategy.

What do you guys make of v-moda (http://www.v-moda.com/)? The reviews and promotional media go on about durability, and the Amazon price points seem (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Vibe-Earbuds-Gunmetal-Black/dp/B000V5L5MG/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_0) fairly (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Earbuds-Headset-iPhone-Compatible/dp/B001132DNW/ref=pd_cp_e_3) reasonable (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Earbud-Headset-Microphone-Compatible/dp/B001NABXXE/ref=pd_cp_e_3) - however there are some ominous warnings buried in the (http://www.amazon.com/review/R2DIYQES2YOCSO/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm) comments (http://www.amazon.com/review/R3NX3P8C9XLNBY/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm). The sort of shit that's going wrong with all of the earphones I buy, but at least they seem to abide their warranty terms. >_>

[Vicious]

I need some headphones.

I want either supra-aural, or simply portable. My friend has a pair of supra-aural Sennheisers with cups (as opposed to the foam pads) that are very comfortable, and I think I prefer the feel and look of those rather than the foam pad idea. I haven't actually listened to them, though. They do have a detachable cable, which is nice.

So, I'm looking for something portable, preferably with a collapsible band like these things have. I'm not interested in noise reduction. Any recommendations?

If you're not worried about isolation at all, but are on a budget and looking for a pair of throw arounds the Koss Porta Pro is always a personal favorite. Cheap, lifetime warranty, and a great starter can for a lot of people.

Update, I'm horrified (http://www.headphones.com.au/pbrowse?search=ultimate+cable).

That's more than I pay for entire replacement earphones, just on replacement cables for the damn things (http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=248). Unless they're frickin' hyperdurable cables from the future, I need a new strategy.

Then just buy them because they're good IEMs. Or buy the new Altec Lansing Backbeat Pro as I believe they're based off the Super.Fi 4 (super.fi 3 inside smaller IEM without removable cable).

Personally if Altec Lansing sells the UHP336 over there and the cable breaks you could probably just RMA it with them since they have a two year warranty without exclusions AFAIK.

What do you guys make of v-moda (http://www.v-moda.com/)? The reviews and promotional media go on about durability, and the Amazon price points seem (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Vibe-Earbuds-Gunmetal-Black/dp/B000V5L5MG/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_0) fairly (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Earbuds-Headset-iPhone-Compatible/dp/B001132DNW/ref=pd_cp_e_3) reasonable (http://www.amazon.com/V-Moda-Earbud-Headset-Microphone-Compatible/dp/B001NABXXE/ref=pd_cp_e_3) - however there are some ominous warnings buried in the (http://www.amazon.com/review/R2DIYQES2YOCSO/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm) comments (http://www.amazon.com/review/R3NX3P8C9XLNBY/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm). The sort of shit that's going wrong with all of the earphones I buy, but at least they seem to abide their warranty terms. >_>

They are bass heavy and made mostly for dance music with a smiley face frequency response. I consider them audio jewelry for the club scene honestly.

You could always take a look at entry level IEMs from Shure, Etymotic, Westone, Klipsch, Audeo PFE's are also nice . . . though the price varies quite a bit depending on what you want . . .

No matter what IEM you get make sure you budget for comply foam tips on occasion. Bass from IEMs depends on seal entirely, and the only way to guarantee that is with a foam that seals well. Not to mention they help noise isolation by plenty.

In other news I just bought a pair of these:

http://www.headphone.com/productphotos/large/0020420701_1763.jpg

Audio Technica AD700

For use when I'm in bed. They're a really easy load so my Zune should drive them without problem, and they're midrange centric so I don't have to deal with shrilling highs or start bouncing my head to bass. I tried some JVC flats for the purpose but they were too shrill with a Grado like peak at the top end >_<

[drzaius]

I just set up my first serious Hi-Fi:

Naim CD (CD3), pre (NAC82) and power (NAP180)
Project Rpm 6 with ortofon 2m black cartridge.
Dynavector p75 phono stage
Neat motive 2 speakers.
All wired with naim cable and interconnects.

Next is a sonos (on it's way) + dacmagic for streaming.

it sounds awesome.

[Vicious]

All wired with naim cable and interconnects.

Please tell me you didn't waste money on overpriced interconnects . . . everything else in the system looks good though.

[Fenrir]

Then just buy them because they're good IEMs. Or buy the new Altec Lansing Backbeat Pro as I believe they're based off the Super.Fi 4 (super.fi 3 inside smaller IEM without removable cable).

Personally if Altec Lansing sells the UHP336 over there and the cable breaks you could probably just RMA it with them since they have a two year warranty without exclusions AFAIK.
Are they at all likely to try to weasel out of warranty obligations off the back of user neglect/abuse, et al?

My situation is that I'm sick of going through earphones like light bulbs - so you can understand if I express concern over higher-quality earphones just becoming more expensive light bulbs. Better quality sound would be a nice bonus, but if the possibility of them breaking within my "active lifestyle" (which has lately become more active) and leaving me out-of-pocket by some hefty sum of cash arises, then I'm not interested.

I guess the $50 spare cable cost camouflages well against the price tag of the earphones themselves, though. If the cables can take a beating, and if cable warranty is available, then maybe.

They are bass heavy and made mostly for dance music with a smiley face frequency response. I consider them audio jewelry for the club scene honestly.
Hmm, fair enough. I only showed interest because they went on about space-age metallic cables of the future. >_>

[StorminNorman]

If it makes you feel any better, Fenrir, the first pair of headphones I had that lasted me more than two years was also the first pair I paid over $100 for (Sennheiser PX200s). I recently upgraded to a pair of Senn HD228s, although I've just discovered that there's going to be an updated version of the PX200 soon as well.

I can't really stand earphones/IEMs, so I tend to go with headphones, though.

Actually, Vicious, here's a question you can probably answer: What are the real differences between "open" and "closed" headphones? I keep hearing stuff about resonances and other nerdy audiophile bullshit, but I want to know, in actual language that people understand, what the actual differences are.

All I know is that "open" headphones usually cost about $50 more than "closed" ones.

[Vicious]

Are they at all likely to try to weasel out of warranty obligations off the back of user neglect/abuse, et al?

They haven't for me . . . currently I'm in the process of an RMA because my right armature died. They didn't have a problem or even ask if anything happened. I imagine at this point they would probably just send you a replacement cable if it broke going through Altec Lansing . . . or would sell it at a much cheaper price than the UE cables.

My situation is that I'm sick of going through earphones like light bulbs - so you can understand if I express concern over higher-quality earphones just becoming more expensive light bulbs. Better quality sound would be a nice bonus, but if the possibility of them breaking within my "active lifestyle" (which has lately become more active) and leaving me out-of-pocket by some hefty sum of cash arises, then I'm not interested.

You're taking the right step wanting to buy a better IEM then with a two or three year warranty. Most premium companies tend to stand behind their IEMs very well . . . though I'd avoid UE (directly) since they've been taken over by Logitech and had warranties greatly reduced while ****ing over resellers.

/not a fan of Logitech besides remotes/

I guess the $50 spare cable cost camouflages well against the price tag of the earphones themselves, though. If the cables can take a beating, and if cable warranty is available, then maybe.

Maybe just call your Altec Lansing distributor and say you're interested in purchasing earphones but want to know if they warranty the cable? They should probably tell you yay/nay.

Hmm, fair enough. I only showed interest because they went on about space-age metallic cables of the future. >_>

I laugh at cable marketing . . . and also cry when I realize some people legitimately spend thousands on cables . . .

I can't really stand earphones/IEMs, so I tend to go with headphones, though.

They definitely take getting used to . . . did you try some foam tips with IEMs before? Maybe some small comply tips would have worked well for you . . .

Actually, Vicious, here's a question you can probably answer: What are the real differences between "open" and "closed" headphones? I keep hearing stuff about resonances and other nerdy audiophile bullshit, but I want to know, in actual language that people understand, what the actual differences are.

All I know is that "open" headphones usually cost about $50 more than "closed" ones.

Open means the driver enclosure is just that . . . open in the back. This allows more air to be moved and to reduce backwaves (sound bouncing back at the driver). However, you can hear other people through the headphones and they can also hear your music (which may piss a lot of people off).

Closed means the driver enclosure is sealed in the back. This means it offers noise isolation, but has other compromises like requiring dampening and backwaves.

Closed cans in the same pricing bracket as open will tend to have more distortion and a less impressive frequency response. They can also get warmer on the ears.

*comment on distortion: I question how much this will really impact most people. Most headphones have less than 1% distortion . . . most cone based (dynamic) speakers have 10% distortion anyway. Food for thought! :D

Generally speaking you're going to have to spend more on a closed can over an open can to get similar performance or accept you are going to get less actual performance (which may even happen with a more expensive closed can anyway). For outside usage I usually recommend a closed headphone or an IEM (armature based IEMs are capable of better performance with isolation BTW). For home usage having an open headphone with a quiet room usually can't be beat in terms of price to performance.

Lastly:

Comment on performance. I consider performance an objective and not subjective criteria in audio. A flat frequency response, low distortion, and proper transient reproduction is what I mean in terms of performance. What's objectively best for reproduction. If you like more treble/midrange/bass then a closed phone may end up performing better or cheaper with a subjective ideal or if isolation becomes a performance criterion. I tend not to buy for subjective but for the purpose I need filled.




Hope that clears some things up, and if you have anymore questions I'll be glad to help. Hopefully I didn't get too convoluted with my explanation, but there are some key terms like backwaves that really need to be understood to know why closed phones are generally considered a compromise.

[Blue]

If you're not worried about isolation at all, but are on a budget and looking for a pair of throw arounds the Koss Porta Pro is always a personal favorite. Cheap, lifetime warranty, and a great starter can for a lot of people.They do look ugly as ****, however. Sennheiser PX100 get any sort of recommendation from you?

[Vicious]

They do look ugly as ****, however. Sennheiser PX100 get any sort of recommendation from you?

Bah, you just don't know style :p

The PX100 and Porta Pro are almost identical in FR and other areas. Both are quite bass heavy honestly. If you must the PX100 would suffice . . . but when the Porta Pro is cheaper and has a longer warranty it gets my vote.

Anyway, I imagine either would work for you. Also consider looking at the 25th anniversary Porta Pro if you're worried about aesthetics before going with the PX100. Just a consideration.

[Fenrir]

Maybe just call your Altec Lansing distributor and say you're interested in purchasing earphones but want to know if they warranty the cable? They should probably tell you yay/nay.
Alright, I'll do this when payday comes around, thanks.

I laugh at cable marketing . . . and also cry when I realize some people legitimately spend thousands on cables . . .
Oh, it wasn't that Monster-cable sound quality marketing crap - at least, not from memory. They just stated/implied durability.


>_>
<_<
>_>

[StorminNorman]

Thanks for the reply, Vicious. That's the clearest I've ever seen it explained.

As for IEMs/earphones, the problem is that they tend to actually irritate my ears. I've had soreness last for a couple of days after wearing (admittedly cheap) earphones.

Also I just think they look kind of dorky.

[Vicious]

Thanks for the reply, Vicious. That's the clearest I've ever seen it explained.

That's good. I was doing my best to make it as straightforward as possible.

As for IEMs/earphones, the problem is that they tend to actually irritate my ears. I've had soreness last for a couple of days after wearing (admittedly cheap) earphones.

Do you know which ones they were . . . and were they using silicon tips?

Worse that happens to me is my ears can get a bit dry and itchy.

Also I just think they look kind of dorky.

Definitely depends on which ones you get. The Super.Fi 3, 5 Pro/EB, and Triple.Fi definitely look like Frankenstein bolts for the ears. None the less I have yet to find a better bang for the buck than the Super.Fi 3 (UHP336 rebadge). I imagine the Super.Fi 4 rebadge might be up your alley though . . .

[drzaius]

Please tell me you didn't waste money on overpriced interconnects . . . everything else in the system looks good though.

oh they were overpriced for sure.
But after paying for everything else in the setup it seemed pretty mild.

naim enthusiasts are mad for their cable apparently. The instruction manuals are hilariously overenthusiastic. not only do they DEMAND that you use the right cables (directional of course! and at least 3.5 metres each way for the speaker cable) but they warn that ANY other speakers in your room will negatively alter the acoustics... even the speakers in your telephone headset! Also they suggest that all the equipment be left on for about five days before it starts sounding its best.

anyway, it all looks kickass. I'll post a picture once i get the streaming bits and bobs in place.

[Blue]

Bah, you just don't know style :p

The PX100 and Porta Pro are almost identical in FR and other areas. Both are quite bass heavy honestly. If you must the PX100 would suffice . . . but when the Porta Pro is cheaper and has a longer warranty it gets my vote.

Anyway, I imagine either would work for you. Also consider looking at the 25th anniversary Porta Pro if you're worried about aesthetics before going with the PX100. Just a consideration.http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m198/xdvdx/KOSS%20PortaPro%2025th%20Anniversary%20Edition/portaCompare.jpg

Much better! :p

Seriously, these things are hideous. I think I'll just go for the PX100s, but thanks for the help anyway. I'm not fussed about the apparent bass-heaviness, really. After using IEMs for my entire portable life, I'm hanging out for a bit more bass. ;)

[Vicious]

oh they were overpriced for sure.
But after paying for everything else in the setup it seemed pretty mild.

naim enthusiasts are mad for their cable apparently. The instruction manuals are hilariously overenthusiastic. not only do they DEMAND that you use the right cables (directional of course! and at least 3.5 metres each way for the speaker cable) but they warn that ANY other speakers in your room will negatively alter the acoustics... even the speakers in your telephone headset! Also they suggest that all the equipment be left on for about five days before it starts sounding its best.

anyway, it all looks kickass. I'll post a picture once i get the streaming bits and bobs in place.

As long as you don't start to believe it then it's all good. The second you go to head-fi and start looking at thousand dollar cables is the day you need to get out of audio entirely ;)

PS:

There's no such thing as a directional interconnect :p

Much better!

Seriously, these things are hideous. I think I'll just go for the PX100s, but thanks for the help anyway. I'm not fussed about the apparent bass-heaviness, really. After using IEMs for my entire portable life, I'm hanging out for a bit more bass.

No love for the retro . . . it's a shame :(

PS:

Getting rid of the tacky blue does make a large difference . . . one looks retro and the other looks retro AND odd. Just my thoughts.

PPS:

They also still look better than skull candies.

//end

[Blue]

I've looked at images of the PX100s, and most of them seem to look like this:

http://hifi-reviews.com/images/headphones/sennheiserPX100_01.jpg

But I've just found these:

http://media.audiojunkies.com/sennheiser-px-100-ii-headphones.jpg

'PX100 II', apparently. I might try to find a pair of these, because they look better than the silver racing-wheel look of the originals.

[StorminNorman]

Yep. Sennheiser just recently released successors to the PX100/200 line. Apparently they're even better than the original models, which is a good thing, as the PX100 is considered ridiculously good value for money.

Vicious: The other problem with IEMs is that I can't use them as a headband to hold my hair back. :p

[drzaius]

PS:

There's no such thing as a directional interconnect :p


honestly, it's like alternative medicine or religion.
people just believe things.

[Vicious]

honestly, it's like alternative medicine or religion.
people just believe things.

That's the best way of describing it.

In other news, the AD700's came in a while ago:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_qQq7IsRuilM/Su-zbWwQr9I/AAAAAAAAA2U/ly_kofkN05s/s720/P1030190.JPG

I must say, they are the perfect bed headphone. Nice rolled of bass, trebles exist but aren't shrill, the angled drives help make them sound a bit distant, they are easy to drive, and best of all they're comfortable.

Definitely not a reference phone like my AKGs, but definitely dignified for what they are.

[Blue]

I grabbed a pair of the PX100s today. They didn't have the new version, and the bird at JB obviously had no ****ing clue about anything, just pulled out the "latest Sennheiser catalogue" and asked me if I meant the PX150s, so I grabbed the older ones.

I thought I heard a little bit of treble distortion when I was first trying them out, but listening to different songs now, I've not heard it again. Bass-heavy, definitely, but not muddy. I'm loving the idea of having some collapsible headphones that are comfortable and don't fall out of my ears like canalphones can tend to do. Bit of bass is nice for such small phones, nice to be able to hear bass lines properly without having to shove a canalphone into my brain to get the right seal. That's why I didn't get the PX200s, I hate having to get a seal rather than the most comfortable position.

Anyway, pretty happy for the price. :)

[igotnewsuper8systemWRONG!]

I ordered my first pair of expensive (to non audiophiles) headphones after some hefty forum reading, Alessadro MS1i's. Should be here next week.

[Vicious]

I ordered my first pair of expensive (to non audiophiles) headphones after some hefty forum reading, Alessadro MS1i's. Should be here next week.

Tell your ears I'm sorry :(

I used to not mind the Grado/Alessandro sound, but after listening to some reference cans I realize just how shrill they are. >_<'

Either way I hope you like them.

[igotnewsuper8systemWRONG!]

I'll make a note to stay away from reference cans. I got them from headphones.com.au, so if I don't like them atleast I can send them back and get something else.

[Vicious]

I'll make a note to stay away from reference cans. I got them from headphones.com.au, so if I don't like them atleast I can send them back and get something else.

Yes, stay away from reference speakers too. They honestly will ruin your life ;)

I hope you like whatever you decide on. Some people love the peaky treble sound.

[igotnewsuper8systemWRONG!]

I've been lurking around Head-Fi and I'm really hoping I can turn them into MS-1000's. Do you know anything about this? Have any tips?

[Vicious]

I've been lurking around Head-Fi and I'm really hoping I can turn them into MS-1000's. Do you know anything about this? Have any tips?

Honestly I'm not a big Grado or Alessandro fan anymore so I really don't keep up with that stuff.

Generally speaking I'd avoid some of the "tweaks" some head-fiers come up with . . . they can be a bit ludicrous sometimes. People here think I'm an eccentric, but I'm reserved in comparison to many there.

Looking at the mod though I already have a feeling I see what's going on. It's probably going to change the rate at which SLP builds to create "impact" . . . much like many Grado's (etc) do already.

This is very much a damned if you do damned if you don't case with headphone design. Having a constant SPL with a linear response makes your headphone sound like it has no impact even if it has bass. On the other hand a headphone without bass can sound like it has impact if SPL doesn't build at a constant pressure and isn't necessarily linear.

For this reason I'm not really a fan of the liberator, and inherently anything that builds off of it. Headphones aren't going to have impact unless they're doing something empirically wrong.

[Lazlow]

So had a look through my local JB HiFi's stock, and spotted these 3 bookshelf speakers in my price range;

Wharfedale AT200 - $322
Wharfedale XARUS 1000 - $298
Dali Concept 1 - $333

Thoughts? Comments? Opinions?

[Vicious]

The Wharfedale AT200 would probably be the best of those. I believe the XARUS is mostly made for mixing/monitoring duty, and Dali is pretty ho-hum in the entry line.

EDIT:

On the other hand you could get the Diamond 9.1 cheaper here (http://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_28&products_id=163).

[igotnewsuper8systemWRONG!]

Alright so after a couple of weeks of listening I am really loving these MS1's. They are an absolute joy to listen to, be it from my laptop, guitar pedal, tv or walkman. Most importantly, its been a while since I have enjoyed music so much. Really happy with my purchase, would definitely recommend to any other audio scrubs out there.

[Pai Mel]

My powered monitor speakers sound fuzzy when you just turn them on and need to warm up playing loud material for a couple of minutes before they will sound clean again. Is that a sign of the power capacitors getting old or the transistors? How much would it cost approx. to get them refurbished?

[Vicious]

My powered monitor speakers sound fuzzy when you just turn them on and need to warm up playing loud material for a couple of minutes before they will sound clean again. Is that a sign of the power capacitors getting old or the transistors? How much would it cost approx. to get them refurbished?

I imagine it would be a leaky capacitor. You'll have to contact the manufacture to see how much it would cost for them to repair it probably.

[StorminNorman]

I've got a Logitech iPod alarm clock with the same problem. I'd replace it under warranty, but it's an excuse to buy a better one in the next year.

[Pai Mel]

I can't do the warranty thing as I've had it for 8 years at least. Each monitor speaker weighs about 35 kg. There is a 250W amp for the woofer and a 100W amp for the tweeter built in. So if I can fix it myself I'd rather that. Otherwise, it's no pain to warm up the speakers before use and just persevere with the initial fuzziness.

[Vicious]

I can't do the warranty thing as I've had it for 8 years at least. Each monitor speaker weighs about 35 kg. There is a 250W amp for the woofer and a 100W amp for the tweeter built in. So if I can fix it myself I'd rather that. Otherwise, it's no pain to warm up the speakers before use and just persevere with the initial fuzziness.

Pai,

I can try and help you troubleshoot this if you're really interested; there's still a chance it could be a transistor or something else entirely. You'll need to post a pic on here in decent quality and at a high enough resolution though -- maybe host it at a file dump so we don't have to deal with resizing. Probably wouldn't hurt to check for DC offset either as it could be a bias issue that fixes itself as it heats up.

You'll need a soldering iron (preferably heat adjustable since you'll probably end up working with lead free solder) if we find the problem, a multimeter is a staple, and know how to read a schematic or follow the circuit.

If it's a leaky cap there's a chance it may show a bulge or other anomalies. That's only if we're really lucky though. Amps can be simple or complex to work on depending on our luck, so I really can't advise you till we see the board.

PS:

As a heads up I'm only good at guiding you through testing and troubleshooting the basics, so if the problem turns out to be more complex I'd suggest going to diyaudio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/), however they usually expect you've at least checked the basics before asking in my experience.

[Pai Mel]

Got soldering iron and still have a roll of solder that is not lead-free.

Might have to add a multimeter on my Christmas list.

I've built simple electronics kits before, most complicated being a variable power supply, so I can follow schematics. I don't really understand how most things work though - even if I had completed an Electrical Technology course in TAFE, it was all over my head. Only did the course cause I didn't know what else to do.

I'm still a bit nervous about pulling the speaker apart and I want to listen to some music these next couple of weeks.

How about you help me with something simpler first, like fixing a component tape deck that has one capstan motor that doesn't spin?

[Dr Skinnybones]

wanting some help on headphones.

getting some 'phones for my sisters 21st. she is after good headphones for the activity of sitting and listening to music, so they wouldn't need to be portable. I'm thinking open, budget is $100-200.

i doubt they would ever be used with high quality hifi equipment. her primary music source is her macbook but she wants to get a vinyl player at some point but I expect this would be entry level. what would be the best bang for my buck?

[Vicious]

wanting some help on headphones.

getting some 'phones for my sisters 21st. she is after good headphones for the activity of sitting and listening to music, so they wouldn't need to be portable. I'm thinking open, budget is $100-200.

i doubt they would ever be used with high quality hifi equipment. her primary music source is her macbook but she wants to get a vinyl player at some point but I expect this would be entry level. what would be the best bang for my buck?

Probably the AT ATH-AD700 (http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=178) or similar. Extremely comfortable, easy to power, and easy to listen to.

[drzaius]

if anyone spots a 2nd hand naim headline on their travels, please let me know.

[Vicious]

if anyone spots a 2nd hand naim headline on their travels, please let me know.

I'll keep an eye open on sites I frequent, but judging by a quick search you're probably best looking for a different make/model as it seems hard finding one used at a reasonable price.

There's two listed on Ebay (http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=Naim+headline&_sacat=See-All-Categories) though if you're willing to throw a lot of money at it (requires importing and possible rewiring of the PSU they're using).

BTW,

What headphones are you planning on using with it? :)

[adam_91vn]

Spend some money on my ears today :D (all from headphonics)

Got a pair of Audio Technica: ATH-AD700

http://gobigelectronics.com/images/products/ath-ad700.jpg
http://www.headphonethings.co.uk/images/AT-ATH-AD700.jpg

The Corda Swing to help run them and fix my sound issue with the tv that has the 360

http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/bilder/swingblackright480.jpg

And these for the wife, Sennheiser cx300-II

http://www.grahams.co.uk/shop/media/gbu0/prodsm/sennheiser-cx300-II-black-500x500.jpg

$667 all up :(

[Vicious]

You should enjoy the AD700s . . . they aren't the most accurate, but they're good for the price and sooo comfy!

As for the Swing amp, please tell me you're using the xfeed on it :o


I got some new IEMs for exercising . . . the JVCs I were using got on my nerves, suck with silicon tips, but with foam get bacteria and gave me an ear infection which ruptured a damn eardrum (FFFFUUUUU)

So yeah, MEElectronics M6:

http://www.meelec.com/v/vspfiles/photos/Earphone-M6-MEE-3T.jpg

They sound great for the cash.

[TAT]

Are the Koss Porta Pro's any good for headphones <$150?

[Vicious]

Are the Koss Porta Pro's any good for headphones <$150?

They're considered one of the best bang for the bucks. They have low distortion even though they aren't the most accurate, and their lifetime warranty has stood the test of time.

Know though that they're extremely open . . . so there's no noise isolation (people can hear you, you can hear them).

Depending on usage you may also consider the Audio Technica ATH-AD 3, 4, or 500 (if say you're using it with a computer at home). There's also the Allesandro MS-1 . . . but I'm not a huge fan of the sound by any means.

If you need a closed headphone I can suggest a few too. Just let me know.

[TAT]

They're considered one of the best bang for the bucks. They have low distortion even though they aren't the most accurate, and their lifetime warranty has stood the test of time.

Know though that they're extremely open . . . so there's no noise isolation (people can hear you, you can hear them).
Good to know. They're mainly for personal use, so the open/closed isn't really an issue.

Thanks for the info.

[adam_91vn]

You should enjoy the AD700s . . . they aren't the most accurate, but they're good for the price and sooo comfy!

As for the Swing amp, please tell me you're using the xfeed on it :o


I mainly using it for the 360 atm. I thought crossfeed should only be used for stuff that has a high stereo presence like music created in the 50's or something.

[Vicious]

I mainly using it for the 360 atm. I thought crossfeed should only be used for stuff that has a high stereo presence like music created in the 50's or something.

Well, I'd use it for any music because none of it is really mastered for headphones.

As for the 360 . . . not sure how much of it should be used with it if at all . . .

[Lazlow]

Would I be wasting money on either of these two stereo amps?

Pioneer A-109 (http://www.pioneer.com.au/Products/Home%20Entertainment/Home%20Components%20and%20Accessories/A109.aspx) - $398 @ JB HiFi

Sherwood RX-4109 (http://www.sherwoodusa.com/prod_rx4109.html) - $295 @ JB HiFi

[Pai Mel]

Why buy stereo in our age of surround sound, unless you plan on using them to amplify a pair of speakers in a surround setup.

Imo, there are better bang for your buck, specially factory-seconds or refurbished units.

http://www.excelhifi.com.au/

https://web1.pioneer.com.au/itf/PHX/phoenix.nsf/Index

[Vicious]

Would I be wasting money on either of these two stereo amps?

Pioneer A-109 (http://www.pioneer.com.au/Products/Home%20Entertainment/Home%20Components%20and%20Accessories/A109.aspx) - $398 @ JB HiFi

Sherwood RX-4109 (http://www.sherwoodusa.com/prod_rx4109.html) - $295 @ JB HiFi

I tend not to trust amps that don't specify a 4ohm load.

I'd suggest calling clef hifi about this ([url=http://clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34&products_id=498) Cambridge and see what sort of deal you can work out.

What speakers are you trying to power BTW?

EDIT:

@Pai Mel

Amp sections tend to suck on HT Receivers. So if one is planning on using it for music or stereo an integrated is a good way to get started at a halfway reasonable price.

[Lazlow]

Heh, I think that's the second time you've linked to that Cambridge amp. Might just tell the olds to get me something else for my b'day, and just bite the bullet on that amp.

[TAT]

The advantage, if you'd call it that, of living close to a post office is that you get the first deliveries of the day.

The Porta Pros are here, and are surprisingly smaller than I was expecting.

I'll take a photo a bit later and give my impressions of the sound quality.

The lifetime warranty is a definite plus.

[Vicious]

Heh, I think that's the second time you've linked to that Cambridge amp. Might just tell the olds to get me something else for my b'day, and just bite the bullet on that amp.

Second time in this thread yes. Since I'm not in Australia it's hard for me to track down the best offerings for the price over there, but this one seems to definitely stand out if you can get a good enough discount.

I'll take a photo a bit later and give my impressions of the sound quality.

Please do :)

[TAT]

Please do :)
So I sign for my parcel, bring it inside and even though the box is about half the size of a desktop pc, it's extremely light. Opening the package reveals that the sealed headphones take up barely half the space - the rest is made up of pieces of foam. The headphones themselves look almost diminutive compared to the plantronics mic/headset I use with the pc (pics to follow; can't upload from work or my phone, frustratingly). In the headphone packaging are the porta pros, a soft synthetic carry case and a (gold plated?) 3.5mm-6.35mm connector. It's a very slick package for what are a fairly inexpensive pair of headphones.

Like I've already said I was most taken aback by the size of the unit, and you'll see from the photos that they don't even cover my ears (which are tiny for an adult). The band is a thin metal strip and my only complaint thusfar is that my hair sometimes gets caught in it :P. There is a generous layer of foam over the speakers and another strip of foam a cm or two above, to transfer some pressure from the ears to the head. They are extremely comfortable to wear and I find myself moving to adjust them despite them having not moved at all, they sit so lightly.

The sound quality is unlike any other speakers or headphones I've ever owned. The clarity and quality of the sound is just ****ed, basically. I'm not an audiophile by any stretch of the imagination, but I can't imagine a human would ever need more expensive headphones because I honestly don't know how much better audio output can get. I am finding myself hearing new sounds due to the increased range, and the balance of treble and bass is another class altogether of what I'm used to. I've listened to familiar music as well as worn them while playing a few rounds of TF2 (which I've been playing for over a year now) and I think I'll be ditching my headset altogether, despite the tactical advantage that voice chat provides in a game like TF2.

I've wanked for long enough. Anyone in the market for headphones should just get a pair of Porta Pros; they'll possibly inspire a similar wank of text.

My head w/ Plantronics headset
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/Devest8r/IMG_0068.jpg

My head w/ Koss Porta Pros
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/Devest8r/IMG_0066.jpg

If anyone is interested, I got them from here (http://www.velvetsystems.com/Koss.PORTAPRO.cfm)

[Vicious]

@TAT

Glad you're enjoying them. Just a few notes:

The adapter is probably gold plated, it's pretty standard.

Regarding the size, these are an earpad based fit so they rest on the ear so you just position where you want them. If you want an over-ear design in the future you'll want a set of full sized headphones.

Lastly, regarding losing voice for TF2. Consider a clip on mic like the one from Zalman (ZM-MIC1 if you can find it). They're quite well rated so you can get an improvement all around while not sacrificing a thing (save moderate convenience).

[drzaius]

on the headphone front;
I just bought a naim headline (+napsc) and k701's on ebay.

cant wait to try them out. will update.

and in other news - my sonos (streaming flac) is sounding amazing after the addition of a dacmagic.

[TrinityJayOne]

So my Sennheisers finally broke a little while back (my own fault, snapped the cable off right at the base) and I'm on the hunt for a new pair. I'm after a headset as I've been meaning to get a mic for gaming for ages, and at some stage I plan to rig up a universal 3.5mm adaptor for my 360 as well. Requirements-

-Must be a headset
-Must be cans. I wear a headset that sits on your ear at work all day and they shit me.
-Preferably open, as will not be used in public
-Heavily biased towards Sennheiser products, will consider other brands if reasoning is exceptional
-Primary usage will be mostly gaming, but also music, movies & TV.
-Willing to spend up to $200~. Hardly an audiophile but I know what sounds good and I want something that will last me for years.

The Sennheiser PC 360 G4ME (http://www.sennheiser.com/sennheiser/home_en.nsf/root/private_headsets_pc_pro-gaming_504122?Open&row=2) has caught my eye. It has everything I want and the reviews are excellent, but everywhere I called today had never heard of it. A very helpful PC store called Sennheiser for me as they said it wasn't on the massive order they just lodged with them, and apparently they aren't available in Aus yet. :( Still, I'm not against importing if I have to, plenty of pals in the US/Europe who could post it for me.

Failing that, there's the readily available PC 350s that it replaced for about $130-ish (on Amazon, so would need to import). These are closed cans however, and I read reviews that complained about not being able to hear yourself speak, or when you can it sounds all muffled like you have the flu. They also have a high impedance that many say results in barely-there bass from a PC unless you use an amp. I don't have an amp, so if I had to fork out for that too I might as well just be buying the 360s.

Discuss!

[Pai Mel]

Just purchased an Allure Blu-ray player from Clive for $99. I took the demo unit from the shop as that was all they had in stock.

I just noticed that when playing a Dolby TrueHD soundtrack, my Yammy AVR can't add any of its virtual soundspaces to the audio, like you know, how you can select from programs like 'Adventure', 'Drama', 'Church', etc. to add some reverb to the sound. Is that simply because I don't have a high-end AVR? Or is there just too much audio bandwidth to process?

[drzaius]

i'm liking the K701's.

Listening to mainly classical and they sound nice and airy.
I've heard they improve after considerable wear in so i'm trying to use them as much as possible and neglecting my speakers.
I've found that they are a bit uncomfortable to lie down with because the large earpieces touch my pillow and push up on my ears. VERY comfortable when standing/sitting though.

Also added a CDX and a power supply for my preamp.

My hifi rack is now insufficient.

[Creedy]

I'm finally moving into the granny flat (bachelor pad OK!)and will finally be buying some proper rear speakers and a sub.
I have Paradigm Monitor 9's for my fronts and either getting Paradigm Titan Monitor's or Monitor 7's for my rears. The Titan Monitor's are bookshelf speakers while the Monitor 7's are floor standing speakers.
The Monitor 7's are roughly $100 extra then what the TitanMonitor's are.

Maybe Vicious can make a more informed decision on what I should do?
Hell, I'm even tempted to save up for Monitor 11's and use my Monitor 9's as my rears. lol

[Vicious]

Before I suggest anything I of course like to know what electronics you're using to drive the speakers - it can make quite a difference when considering clipping distortion. Last I remember it was a Sony receiver, not sure what you're using now. I'll need brand & model.

Once I have that info I can make a better educated suggestion.

[Creedy]

That's right, I never mentioned what new receiver I ended up getting at the beginning of the year.
I have a Onkyo TX-875.

[Vicious]

A step in the right direction going with an Onkyo.

From what I understand it has a bit of dynamic power behind it, so if you don't push your speakers too hard the odds of clipping go down dramatically. I would suggest getting a rack fan unit for it though as they run a bit hot, or find another active cooling solution to help cool it down some. It's pretty easy to make your own fan unit if you don't mind splicing and a bit of soldering too.

Here's my thoughts on the buying situation:

Odds are you're going to want to use the crossover on the receiver to send most bass frequencies to the sub . . . probably starting at 80hz or so. Most bookshelves, including the Titans, should be able to play to 80hz quite well. Considering that I think investing in another set of towers isn't the best idea. I'd invest more in a sub at this point - where you really want the bass to go (don't forget to set your speakers to "small" in the receiver - that enables the xover management)

I'm guessing you already have the center channel? If not make sure not to skimp on it.

One thing you need to buy is a SPL meter. The Onkyo TX-875 doesn't seem to come with any auto-calibration, so you'll need to fix levels and distance yourself if you haven't yet.

Other than that, I'd consider demoing an external amp for the 9's sometime and see if it helps taking a load of the Onkyo amp section. Not sure the size of the room, how far away you sit, and the levels you play at. If you sit about two meters away your receiver can push the speakers to about 100dB without clipping - which is about right for extremely dynamic scenes. Much beyond that and I'd say you're asking a bit too much of the internal amp section.

[Creedy]

I'll take a photo of my "pad" at the end of this month.
I have no idea how I'd fit a fan in the entertainment unit I have bought, you'll have to see what I mean when I get everything set up end of month.

[Vicious]

I'll take a photo of my "pad" at the end of this month.
I have no idea how I'd fit a fan in the entertainment unit I have bought, you'll have to see what I mean when I get everything set up end of month.

I see. Just to make sure we're on the same page though, when I say rackmount fan I mean something like this:

Zbreeze (http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PAZBREEZE)

Obviously this is overpriced, but all it is is three 80mm (or 120?) fans placed in a unit that goes above the offending piece of gear to help dissipate heat. They're usually no more than 5 cm or so tall.

How much clearance do you have above the receiver roughly?

[Creedy]

I certainly have more then 2 inches clearance in my new entertainment unit.
So I just sit that thing on top of my AV receiver and it keeps it cooler? It does get pretty damn hot.

[Vicious]

I certainly have more then 2 inches clearance in my new entertainment unit.
So I just sit that thing on top of my AV receiver and it keeps it cooler? It does get pretty damn hot.

That's the point, it just pushes and pulls air through the top vents on the receiver more effectively. A few people I've chatted with use them and say it brings the temps down substantially. The active fan in the receiver seems to come on a bit too late and a bit too loud for a lot of people. Some rack coolers are actually quieter.

If you have a guitar/pro-audio (not audiophile or "HiFi" unless you want to get gouged) shop that carries gig equipment near you then you can probably find something similar for a reasonable price.

There's also ways to make them rather cheap, but they're usually very ghetto and are pretty much considered stop-gap solutions for testing.

[Allick]

I want to get some over ear headphones for gaming and listening to music on my compy. I don't really need a mic and I want ones that are comfortable and would ideally like to pay no more than $60 or $70. Also I may occasionally use them for playing my PS3, so I'd like for them to have a long wire or maybe wireless. Any recommendations?

[Vicious]

I want to get some over ear headphones for gaming and listening to music on my compy. I don't really need a mic and I want ones that are comfortable and would ideally like to pay no more than $60 or $70. Also I may occasionally use them for playing my PS3, so I'd like for them to have a long wire or maybe wireless. Any recommendations?

There's not a lot in your budget honestly . . . you could go for the AKG K512, but you won't find a lot of love for them. I'd consider upping the budget to around $100 and get the Audio Technica ATH-AD300 instead, which sounds good for the price and is VERY comfortable and has a 3M long cable (roughly).

[Allick]

Alright, I'll look into those thanks.

[Creedy]

I am once again absolutely blown away by how much better my speakers sound having moved into my "bachelor pad". The accoustics for this room are so much better then my tiny room in the house.
I get to listen to all my movies again for the first time.

[Vicious]

I am once again absolutely blown away by how much better my speakers sound having moved into my "bachelor pad". The accoustics for this room are so much better then my tiny room in the house.
I get to listen to all my movies again for the first time.

If you have the space you may also want to consider making some acoustic panels or bass traps. I only wish I had the space to do that myself . . .

[Creedy]

I won't need acoustic panels, I have sliding doors to the right and behind my lounge. I'll be putting nice curtains up over those doors. They should provide some nice absorption.

[Vicious]

I won't need acoustic panels, I have sliding doors to the right and behind my lounge. I'll be putting nice curtains up over those doors. They should provide some nice absorption.

Not. Really. That's about as flawed as the idea of using egg cartons.

All the curtains will impact at best are the really high frequencies, which tend not to reflect very much anyway. Acoustic panels are for mid-bass/mids, and bass traps are just that - to get rid of bass standing waves in the room to prevent undesired resonance.

[Creedy]

Not like I can put acoustic panels on glass sliding doors or anything though.

[Vicious]

Not like I can put acoustic panels on glass sliding doors or anything though.

True, you probably will have a hard time stopping first reflections in that position unfortunately.

[Pai Mel]

Heh, if you have bass reflection problems just use those vibration bass transducers on your couch, and don't use an audio subwoofer. Your neighbours will love you too. Or position the subwoofer closer to you at a position where it won't cause as much problems.

[Vicious]

Heh, if you have bass reflection problems just use those vibration bass transducers on your couch, and don't use an audio subwoofer. Your neighbours will love you too. Or position the subwoofer closer to you at a position where it won't cause as much problems.

Everyone has bass reflection problems - even with bass traps. Just the nature of the beast.

On the other hand, I do use those transducer over a subwoofer now in my current rig (Buttkicker Gamer) now that you mention it. I packed my sub since I'm in an apartment that doesn't take well to loud bass, not to mention it works with my headphones nicely ;)

[Creedy]

I don't have asubwoofer yet but I now have ample space for an Ultracube 12 when I save up the money.

[heatz0r]

I just started using the larger earpiece that came with my sub $100 canal phones to create a better seal and the difference is amazing.

There is music IN my head. It's orgasmic.

[Vicious]

I just started using the larger earpiece that came with my sub $100 canal phones to create a better seal and the difference is amazing.

There is music IN my head. It's orgasmic.

Which canal phones are you using?

[TrinityJayOne]

So my Sennheisers finally broke a little while back (my own fault, snapped the cable off right at the base) and I'm on the hunt for a new pair. I'm after a headset as I've been meaning to get a mic for gaming for ages, and at some stage I plan to rig up a universal 3.5mm adaptor for my 360 as well. Requirements-

-Must be a headset
-Must be cans. I wear a headset that sits on your ear at work all day and they shit me.
-Preferably open, as will not be used in public
-Heavily biased towards Sennheiser products, will consider other brands if reasoning is exceptional
-Primary usage will be mostly gaming, but also music, movies & TV.
-Willing to spend up to $200~. Hardly an audiophile but I know what sounds good and I want something that will last me for years.

The Sennheiser PC 360 G4ME (http://www.sennheiser.com/sennheiser/home_en.nsf/root/private_headsets_pc_pro-gaming_504122?Open&row=2) has caught my eye. It has everything I want and the reviews are excellent, but everywhere I called today had never heard of it. A very helpful PC store called Sennheiser for me as they said it wasn't on the massive order they just lodged with them, and apparently they aren't available in Aus yet. :( Still, I'm not against importing if I have to, plenty of pals in the US/Europe who could post it for me.

Failing that, there's the readily available PC 350s that it replaced for about $130-ish (on Amazon, so would need to import). These are closed cans however, and I read reviews that complained about not being able to hear yourself speak, or when you can it sounds all muffled like you have the flu. They also have a high impedance that many say results in barely-there bass from a PC unless you use an amp. I don't have an amp, so if I had to fork out for that too I might as well just be buying the 360s.

Discuss!
So knowing that I have a decent tax refund on the way (buggered up forms at new job and was taxed 1/3 of my pay for 3mths), I've splashed out on a pair of 360s from a UK retailer. :D

Now, everything I'll be using them for will be running through my PC. Currently my sound is onboard because I've never had a reason to do better, but if I were to buy a decent soundcard would this negate the need for an amp? If yes, would it need to be a decent 5.1 card? (sharehouse, surround is not an option for me)

Vicious?

[Vicious]

So knowing that I have a decent tax refund on the way (buggered up forms at new job and was taxed 1/3 of my pay for 3mths), I've splashed out on a pair of 360s from a UK retailer. :D

Now, everything I'll be using them for will be running through my PC. Currently my sound is onboard because I've never had a reason to do better, but if I were to buy a decent soundcard would this negate the need for an amp? If yes, would it need to be a decent 5.1 card? (sharehouse, surround is not an option for me)

Vicious?

Best bet IMO would be the Auzentech X-Fi Forte. It basically has a discrete headphone amplifier directly on the card. In fact, the amp circuitry scores perfect marks in RMAA and provides a low output impedance too for a decent damping factor - and should have enough power to support the Senns without clipping at most listening levels.

Product Page (http://www.auzentech.com/site/products/x-fi_forte.php)

You can buy it here (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8756) it seems.

Also worth noting is the sound card provides DDL, which if you want to hook it up to a receiver or other digital surround processor is a nice thing to have. I don't even use the analog circuitry of my Prelude anymore, but wouldn't give it up because I do use DDL regularly with my SU-DH1.

[TrinityJayOne]

Without clipping at most listening levels? Define "most"! I like to play things quite loud. Not standing-infront-of-a-rock-concert-speaker loud, but enough that someone could stand behind you shouting and you wouldn't notice.

[Vicious]

Without clipping at most listening levels? Define "most"! I like to play things quite loud. Not standing-infront-of-a-rock-concert-speaker loud, but enough that someone could stand behind you shouting and you wouldn't notice.

Without knowing exact headphone impedance across the frequency spectrum and knowing the Forte's max voltage and current output it's a bit hard to guarantee anything is probably what I should have said. Here's what I'm figuring though:

The max power of the Forte is 100mW per channel. I'd say the minimum is 10mW (a safe estimate at the highest load due to voltage limits). That gives +9dB over initial mW - if Sennheiser measures SPL/mW accurately it should be enough to cover up to 100dB and still have headroom for dynamic range easily without have large distortion from either the transducer or amp (less than 1% THD from the whole thing, if Sennheiser quoted absolute worst THD from their headset though questionable).

Without knowing exactly how Sennheiser measures sensitivity and the power ratings I can't say it won't clip ever though, but I think you'll be safe as long as you don't listen to levels that cause permanent hearing damage.

Still, I'd have purchased well measured headphones and a mic separately myself. In-line volume control, high cost in comparison, and headsets lack of use for audio make them less reliable, more expensive, and harder to find full measurements for.

[TrinityJayOne]

Good enough for me! ;) Cheers

[TrinityJayOne]

Not on phone now so gave it a proper once over, and it looks like it'll do the job very nicely. It's at Scorptech for $7 more than that site, but I like them and they're within pickup range (plus I need to get some bulkier stuff I'd rather not fork out shipping for at the same time).

Thanks again for the advice.

[Vicious]

Not on phone now so gave it a proper once over, and it looks like it'll do the job very nicely. It's at Scorptech for $7 more than that site, but I like them and they're within pickup range (plus I need to get some bulkier stuff I'd rather not fork out shipping for at the same time).

Thanks again for the advice.

Yep, no problem :D

[TrinityJayOne]

Got home to find that my housemate had been here for the courier that delivered them today. :D Only 7 business days, was expecting much longer! (Estimate was 10-15) As such I don't have the Auzentech yet, but already they are glorious and beyond levels of comfort that I am able to express through words alone.

[TrinityJayOne]

So, ordered the Auzentech yesterday from Scorptech, was sitting at home for me tonight. Huzzah! This thing has absolutely blown me away, I can listen to my higher bitrate MP3s at ear-bleedingly high volumes (for 10sec at most mind you o.O) without the slightest hint of distortion or peaking. My only complaint so far is that I don't have such good results with my Xbox, but I think this is just a sign of less-than-brilliant mixing in one or two games. Affected sounds seem to do it regardless of the volume I use, but turning down the volume from the game seems to help.

But yeah, everything else is flawless. I'm hearing sounds in WoW that I never knew existed. :D

A very, very happy purchase.

[nintendo]

I bought a pair of AKG 518 DJs for $150. Is that an alright pair for an alright price?

I bought them to use on my iPhone most of the time. Although with sein now releasing a range with inline controls I'm tempted to grab one of them.

[Vicious]

I bought a pair of AKG 518 DJs for $150. Is that an alright pair for an alright price?

I bought them to use on my iPhone most of the time. Although with sein now releasing a range with inline controls I'm tempted to grab one of them.

I really can't comment on price since it's different from the US. Distortion characteristics of AKG monitor/DJ line is unpredictable, but on average is at least below 3% THD at 90dB. The FR isn't going to be neutral and will likely favor one or two ranges over another (bass, mids, treble). I'd need to see a spectral decay graph to see how decay is, but with most headphones it usually isn't a large issue.

[Allick]

I might get some in new earbuds or in ear headphones (I'm currently using iPod earbuds which are pretty poor). I'm willing to spend up to 80 or maybe 100, but I want them to last a while and be pretty durable because I've broken a few headphones before, and I'm really after quality too. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

[Vicious]

I might get some in new earbuds or in ear headphones (I'm currently using iPod earbuds which are pretty poor). I'm willing to spend up to 80 or maybe 100, but I want them to last a while and be pretty durable because I've broken a few headphones before, and I'm really after quality too. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Don't know what to tell you honestly at that price point. For home use a pair of Audio Technica ATH-AD300 would probably suffice if you don't toss them around too much. If you want a pair that can be beat to hell and back and still be covered under warranty there's the Koss Portapro for $134 (Australian) - a hefty price, but the warranty is lifetime.

[Pai Mel]

Koss PortaPros are only £17.99 + £1.95 postage from http://www.mymemory.co.uk/Overhead-Headphones/Koss/Koss-PortaPro-Headphones

If you use the code "BACKFORGOOD" you get 5% off the item price.

I've also seen them on ebay for $44 posted.

From the YouTube review I've seen on them, apparently the metal headband can get a bit uncomfortable, but the 'phones offer excellent sound quality, with really solid bass.

[Vicious]

Koss PortaPros are only £17.99 + £1.95 postage from http://www.mymemory.co.uk/Overhead-Headphones/Koss/Koss-PortaPro-Headphones

If you use the code "BACKFORGOOD" you get 5% off the item price.

I've also seen them on ebay for $44 posted.

From the YouTube review I've seen on them, apparently the metal headband can get a bit uncomfortable, but the 'phones offer excellent sound quality, with really solid bass.

That's a large difference from headphones.com.au . . . makes them quite a better deal.

[Italian Stallion]

I don't even need another pair of headphones, but at that price, I think I might order some Portapros anyway!

Allick seemed more interested in earbuds & maybe canalphones etc than headphones though. >_>

[Pai Mel]

I prefer headphones, because when you wear them it's more apparent to other people that you should not be disturbed.

[Allick]

Yeah I was more interested in earbuds. I ended up getting a set of Ultimate Ears Metrofi 220s after hearing good things about Ultimate Ears. They're pretty comfy, and the sound quality is much better than my iPod earbuds.

[Vicious]

I don't even need another pair of headphones, but at that price, I think I might order some Portapros anyway!

Allick seemed more interested in earbuds & maybe canalphones etc than headphones though. >_>

Oops, I saw the word "headphones" and skipped over "in-ear".

Still, seems Allick picked up something okay. If those die in the future and he wants a low cost set Denon also makes okay entry level stuff.

[lex3191]

After a few years of running a pair of pretty nice sounding Dali suite series speakers, not sure what model number I am at work will check when i get home, through a pretty average Yamaha RXsomething AV reciever I want to upgrade my hand-me-down Yamaha RX? to a new AV reciever. I have always liked the Cambridge Audio line of AV receivers and have recently be thinking about purchasing the new Cambridge Audio Azur 650R 7.1 http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/summary.php?PID=493 and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on it.

I will be using it obviously for TV and movies but I also listen to music through my current set up. I also game usually with headphones, the Audio Technica ATH-AD900s running into my Yamaha AV. The 650R is a little pricey and it only has 3 HDMI 1.3 imputs and i dont plan to upgrade to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker set up. From what I have read the Azur 650R sounds great for both music and AV stuff.

I was also considering purchasing a centre speaker, so i would end up with a left and right speaker and a centre. Any thoughts? Worth taking the plunge on the receiver? Worth getting a dedicated centre speaker? Thanks

[Vicious]

The 650R shouldn't be too bad, it seems to measure rather well. I personally wouldn't put any 4 ohm nominal speakers on it, but for the normal stuff it should go quite well. I'd also consider the NAD T765 too.

Make sure either one you get comes with a solid warranty.

The bottom of your post confuses me a bit though. Are you only using three channels? If you don't plan on going 5.1 or more then you'd be better off putting the money into a DAC, integrated amp, and speakers (probably a sub).

[lex3191]

Hey thanks Vicious. My thinking with the centre speaker was that I believe dvd's etc are encoded to run dialogue through the centre speaker of a 5.1 set up. I was wondering if the same principle would apply using a 2 speaker set up.

I'm not sure if the my Dali speakers are 4 or 8 ohm I will have to check. It has been a while since I hooked them up to the Yamaha.

I was also considering a DAC something like the Cambridge Audio DACMagic http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=451 but as I run both my TV and Xbox through HDMI I felt i would only get benefit from it through my PC which i run into my reciever to play lossless music files.

[Vicious]

Hey thanks Vicious. My thinking with the centre speaker was that I believe dvd's etc are encoded to run dialogue through the centre speaker of a 5.1 set up. I was wondering if the same principle would apply using a 2 speaker set up.

Well, yes and no. Most dialogue runs through the center channel, but this can cause issues in some movies that are really well mastered. See, what will happen is if a character is talking off screen or walks into the screen the audio may transition from back to front left to center, or something similar. Thus you may miss parts of a the dialogue entirely or have trouble deciphering it when they're off screen. Or a noise that becomes the main focus that the characters look towards you may not hear and may cause confusion for the viewer. Unless you're going full 5.0/1 it's a bad idea IMO. This coming from experience doing it . . . >_>'

I'm not sure if the my Dali speakers are 4 or 8 ohm I will have to check. It has been a while since I hooked them up to the Yamaha.

Please do check the model number. I checked some of the discontinued Suite series on their site and they seem to be 4 ohm. I'm surprised none of your audio gear has fried, but you've probably been listening to a lot of distortion on them without even realizing it honestly.

I was also considering a DAC something like the Cambridge Audio DACMagic http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=451 but as I run both my TV and Xbox through HDMI I felt i would only get benefit from it through my PC which i run into my reciever to play lossless music files.

Your 360 should still be able to do optical, but you may need to get a different cable for it. Most HDTV's still have optical outs (or at least a cable box). Of course you'd then probably want to use a Toslink switch, possibly with integrated repeater (I use one switch with repeater then another in-line repeater for my setup, and yes I mean true powered repeaters >_>').

As for the DacMagic, I own one myself. I actually sold off my Cary Audio Xciter DAC so I could buy one and some other gear. The jitter measurements (non-usb) are in line with the Benchmark DAC ;)

[lex3191]

Hey Vicious. I have the Dali suite 1.7 speakers. They have a nominal impedance of 4 ohms. Just in case you are curious I have a Yamaha RX-V457 which is stated as an 8ohms amp, it has an impedance selector switch which I set when I first put the system together, but i don't ever crank the system anyway, so i guess its OK. So what do I do with these 4 ohms speakers to use them properly on an 8 ohms amp run them through a power amp?

[Vicious]

Hey Vicious. I have the Dali suite 1.7 speakers. They have a nominal impedance of 4 ohms. Just in case you are curious I have a Yamaha RX-V457 which is stated as an 8ohms amp, it has an impedance selector switch which I set when I first put the system together, but i don't ever crank the system anyway, so i guess its OK.

The switches for 4 and 8 ohm a receivers are actually problematic, audioholics (http://www.audioholics.com/education/frequently-asked-questions/connecting-4-ohm-speakers-to-an-8-ohm-receiver-or-amplifier) outlines the issue fairly well.

I just checked NAD and it appears the T765 I mentioned earlier does support 4 ohm loads according to the data sheet on their site. I'd consider emailing and asking at what levels does it start clipping into 4 ohms, and if the "soft-clipping" feature is a rail voltage limiter. Also ask if the rating is a dynamic power rating or continuous.

The Cambridge makes no mention of 4 ohm loads.

So what do I do with these 4 ohms speakers to use them properly on an 8 ohms amp run them through a power amp?

You normally run them through an external amp, or something called an integrated amp (which serves as a stereo preamp/amp combination) from a line level source. Some A/V receivers in the past have done alright, but they're rare. Some receivers can be used like a surround preamp processor for decoding, but they need preouts. Your Yamaha doesn't do this unfortunately, so there's no real add-on to it.